What a barrel cellar reveals about a winery’s priorities
Cellar tours now highlight concrete eggs, clay amphorae and larger oak vessels as winemakers seek flavour, texture and regional authenticity.
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By Torontoer Staff
Cellar layouts have become a clear indicator of a winery’s priorities. Beyond stainless-steel tanks and automated bottling lines, many producers now spotlight concrete eggs, terracotta amphorae and large-format wood vessels as evidence of a deliberate stylistic choice.
The shift reflects a broader industry move away from corrective winemaking toward capturing site-specific fruit expression and texture. When guides pause to explain a particular vessel, they are signalling what the cellar values most.
A quick history: control and then authenticity
During the late 20th century, gleaming stainless-steel tanks symbolised a commitment to hygiene, precision and temperature control. Those investments reduced spoilage and allowed winemakers to limit variables during fermentation. Oak barrels remained important, but the emphasis was on predictability.
In the past two decades some producers have re-embraced older or alternative fermenters to achieve a different set of goals: texture, micro-oxygenation and a truer reflection of vineyard character. That change is often visible on a tour, where amphorae and concrete eggs sit alongside more conventional equipment.
What these vessels do for the wine
Clay, terracotta and concrete do not contribute oak-driven flavours or tannin. Instead, they offer stable thermal mass during fermentation and a gentle, porous contact with oxygen. That slow, controlled exposure can build texture, soften edges and help wines express primary fruit and minerality.
Winemakers still use oak, and for good reasons. Oak barrels bring vanillin, cedar, spice and a range of structural elements that suit many styles. But concrete eggs and amphorae expand the blending palette. Wines kept in several vessel types can be blended to balance freshness, texture and complexity before bottling.
A cellar visit often tells you more about a winery’s intentions than any tasting note, because the equipment reveals what they are trying to preserve or emphasise in the bottle.
Torontoer wine columnist
Adopting these vessels is not purely aesthetic. They require capital outlay and careful maintenance. Clay amphorae must be handled to avoid cracking, and concrete containers need attention to prevent unwanted residues. Expect producers who invest in them to highlight the effort during tours and on labels.
How to read a cellar tour
If a guide points out concrete eggs or amphorae, ask how long the wine spends in the vessel and whether it is used for fermentation, ageing or both. Note also the presence and size of oak foudres and barriques. Large-format wood often contributes slow, broad influence, while new or heavily toasted barrels will impart stronger oak character.
Producers balancing modern control and older vessel influence typically combine stainless steel, concrete or clay, and oak. That combination lets them preserve fresh aromatics, build mid-palate weight and add subtle oak-derived spice when needed.
Three amphora and concrete-fermented wines to try now
- Clos Baltasar Garnacha 2021 (Spain), $24.95 — Fermented and aged in concrete and concrete eggs, with additional time in a 3,000-litre oak foudre. Shows bright red-berry Grenache character with savoury, cedary complexity. 15% ABV, 3 g/L residual sugar. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
- Haywire King Family Vineyard Pinot Gris 2025 (Canada), $31.99 — Produced using a mix of large-format concrete vessels, egg-shaped concrete and oak foudres. Clean, focused pinot gris with fresh orchard fruit and crunchy acidity. 12.5% ABV, 1.8 g/L residual sugar. Available from okanagancrushpad.com.
- Volta Amphora Ramirez Vineyard Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $29.95 — Single-vineyard Prince Edward County chardonnay fermented and aged eight months in a clay amphora. Citrus and peach notes, lively finish and a textured mid-palate. 13% ABV, 6 g/L residual sugar. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
Tasting these wines side by side with oak-led examples reveals the differences clearly: amphora and concrete-fermented wines tend to highlight fruit purity and tactile weight without overtly woody flavours.
A practical takeaway
If a cellar tour emphasises amphorae, concrete eggs and large neutral vessels, expect wines that prioritise texture, vineyard expression and subtle oxygen influence. If the cellar is dominated by new oak and small barrels, expect more pronounced oak character and spice.
Read labels and ask questions on tours. The vessels you see in a cellar are a practical part of a winery’s signature, and understanding them will make tastings more informative and rewarding.
winewinemakingcellarconcrete eggsamphora
